Who’s News in Catering for April 27, 2024


Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Gainey Ranch, the premier Arizona desert resort located at the base of the McDowell Mountains, welcomes Jesse McDannell as Executive Chef. In his role, McDannell will oversee the dining experiences at the resort as it completes a $110 million renovation and transformation to a Grand Hyatt property. Originally from New York, McDannell travelled around the world as a child as his father was an Army Officer. His first job in the kitchen was as a short order cook at the West Point Golf Course at the Military Academy at West Point. After graduating Summa Cum Laude with a Bachelor’s Degree in Culinary Arts from the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College, McDannell began working with Hyatt in July 2006 as a Corporate Management Trainee at Grand Hyatt DFW in Texas. He was quickly promoted to Chef Tournant at the Grand Hyatt San Antonio followed by Executive Sous Chef at Grand Hyatt Buckhead in Atlanta, Ga. McDannell then went on to his firs Executive Chef appointment at Hyatt Escala Lodge in Park City, Utah. McDannell has also served as Executive Chef at the Grand Hyatt Buckhead in Atlanta as well as the opening Executive Chef at the Grand Hyatt SFO, which was recognized during his tenure as the Top Airport Hotel in North America by SkyTraxx.  

                                                                                                                                      

La Concha Key West, the restored Grand Old Dame of Key West, proudly announces Lilian Garapan as Director of Food & Beverage, leading the management and successful operations of all food and beverage outlets, processes and events, including in the new Tropicado crafted cocktail bar, restaurant, Perla, where Cuban cuisine is delightfully reimagined and in El Dom Coffee Shop.  A Philippines native, Garapan has embraced a career path within the tourism industry driven by her enthusiasm for hospitality. Possessing an optimistic demeanor, she consistently endeavors to exceed expectations in guest service, showcasing her dedicated and bright personality. Earning a bachelor’s degree in Tourism and Travel Services Management from Bohol Island State University, Garapan has more than eight years of experience in customer service, sales, marketing and retail operations. Possessing excellent communication and organizational insight, she excels in motivating and empowering her team to achieve optimal performance. Her comprehensive understanding of culinary sales and marketing, payroll management, budgeting, guest relations, and hotel and retail operations emphasize her capability to navigate the industry, while maintaining a focus on revenue generation. Garapan most recently served as Assistant Food and Beverage Manager at Highgate in Key West. Prior, Garapan held the position of Head of Housekeeping at Marriott Hotels in Key West.  

Hot Off the Presses

Proof of the Pudding, Atlanta’s largest caterer, has signed a long-term lease for a purposefully designed 10,000-square-foot event venue on the top floor of 8West, a 200,000-square-foot office and mixed-use project located at 889 Howell Road NW in West Midtown, perched at the intersection of Eighth Street and Georgia Tech’s campus. The new venue, perfect for corporate events and social gatherings, is expected to host Atlanta’s movers and shakers with culinary innovation, elevated hospitality and service, and an outlook that will inspire big ideas.  The event space has a guest capacity of approximately 260 seated and 350 reception style. Innovative, custom menus highlight Proof of the Pudding’s scratch kitchen and culinary and mixology excellence, and its first-class hospitality service further enhances the guest experience. The new space is set to open its doors for company events, weddings, galas and private gatherings by early fall 2024. 



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In NYC, a New Breed of Steakhouse Ups the Cocktail Ante


There’s a new steakhouse in New York. It’s called — in rather too-on-the-nose fashion — Bourbon Steak, and it’s part of a chain of seven such restaurants from noted San Francisco chef Michael Mina. Bourbon Steak is one example of a new breed of restaurant. Some call them modern steakhouses and others term them contemporary steakhouses. The general idea is that they all take the classic steakhouse model and give it an upgrade in terms of style and culinary touches.

That said, any customer who takes a single glance at the Bourbon Steak menu would make no mistake as to the kind of eating establishment they were in. There are the oysters and the shrimp cocktail; the Caesar and wedge salads; and the various cuts of steak, from ribeye to porterhouse to New York strip.

However, if that menu-browsing patron began with the cocktail list, there might be some confusion. The one at Bourbon Steak begins with a Bee’s Knees and continues with a Pisco Punch and Sherry Cobbler. There’s an original mezcal concoction named Fire Walk With Me, after the David Lynch film. There is the expected Martini, but it’s made with sherry; and the predictable Old Fashioned, but its base is Rare Character Single Barrel Bourbon, an expensive sourced whiskey.


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Other new and newish steakhouses that have similarly ambitious cocktail programs include Hawksmoor, a chain born in London in 2006 that opened a New York branch in 2021 and a Chicago location this year; Cote, the Korean steakhouse group first opened by Simon Kim in Manhattan in 2017; the reimagined Brooklyn landmark Gage & Tollner; Quality Meats, part of Alan and Michael Stillman’s empires of restaurants; and The Press Club Grill, which opened in Herald Square last year.

Photo Courtesy of Bourbon Steak https://www.bourbonsteaknyc.com

Incubators of Cocktail Culture

From the repeal of Prohibition until the turn of the 21st century, old-school steakhouses were dependable incubators of cocktail culture, even as other types of restaurants gave up on mixed drinks. But the array of adult refreshments you could get at a steakhouse was limited, usually including Martinis, Manhattans, Old Fashioneds, and a handful of other classics.

In the last decade or so, however, the trajectories of the modern cocktail revival and the modern steakhouse movement have aligned. The result is perhaps the first new American steakhouses in a century and a half to serve the kind of drinks that steak eaters of pre-Prohibition times tossed back.

“There’d never been anyone in my role before,” says Michael Lay, who was brought in as the Mina Group’s beverage director five years ago. “No one was overseeing the beverages in the company as a whole. Many of the cocktail menus were left to run themselves. I’ve spent five years trying to create harmony and synergy for the restaurants,” he adds.

It was a role Lay happily took on. That’s because — and this is the case with most modern cocktail bartenders — he didn’t need to be coaxed into a false affection for classic steakhouses. “I absolutely love old-school steakhouses,” he says. “That is my favorite dining experience.”

“We stay true to the classic steakhouse aesthetic, but with a slightly modernized version of the drinks.”

Like Lay, the beverage directors at modern steakhouses approach their assignment with a healthy respect for the genre’s history. They start by tackling the key steakhouse cocktails and elevating them slightly.

“I wanted to harken to the steakhouse classics — Martinis, Manhattans, Old Fashioneds — all those things that you want to start your meal with,” says Max Green, spirits and bar director of the Hospitality Department, a restaurant group that includes The Press Club Grill. “The first menu was classics.” The question that followed that decision, according to Green, was, “How do we make the drinks our own?”

The answer came in small touches. The Press Club Grill’s Gibson, called Page Turner, has house-made onions and a house-made honey tincture. The punched-up Old Fashioned, called City Desk, is made with a mix of Scotch and brandy.

Photo Courtesy of Press Club Grill https://www.pressclubgrill.com

The same philosophy prevails at Quality Meats, where creative director (formerly bar director) Bryan Schneider, supervises the drinks menu. The list is only seven drinks long, each cocktail a recognizable classic. But every item bears a twist that draws on modern mixology techniques. The Nitro Negroni is on tap and the Cherry Cola Manhattan is made with bourbon, sherry, and a cola bitters blend.

“We stay true to the classic steakhouse aesthetic, but with a slightly modernized version of the drinks,” says Schneider.

A big part of the modern cocktail makeover at new steakhouses is batched drinks. At old-school joints, every Martini is made to order. At the newer places, the house Martini is, more likely than not, batched, pre-chilled, and ready to pour.

“Freezer Martinis are more acceptable now,” says Green, who has four or five freezer cocktails at The Press Club Grill. “You can really build cocktails that have small measures. With that, there’s a lot more depth of flavor. That’s the cocktail-bar influence.”

Ask the bar directors at these restaurants how the steakhouse bar reached this point of maturity and the first name that comes up is Hawksmoor. The London restaurant had a fully formed cocktail program at its inception, when Nick Strangeway, one of the biggest names in the London cocktail revival, was in charge. It’s been that way ever since.

Photo Courtesy of Hawksmoor

“I thought that was a great example of what a modern steakhouse could be,” says Lay.

There’s a certain irony to that admiration, however, since, according to Liam Davy, Hawksmoor’s head of bars, the original London locations took most of their signals from American steakhouses.

“We were doing it in London, which had zero experience of quality drinks in restaurants or steakhouses until the 2010s,” says Davy. “We took a lot of inspiration from the U.S. when we started in the U.K.”

“Walking into a steakhouse, I always want a Martini to start. I think it’s important to honor those traditions.”

Davy says that opening Hawksmoor’s first U.S. location, in Manhattan, presented a particular challenge when it came to the bar. Unlike London patrons, who required some guidance through the cocktail list, American diners tend to belly up to the bar with an order already on their lips.

“Day one, people came in and knew exactly what they wanted,” says Davy. “New Yorkers know what they like and we need to deliver it.” Davy’s job, as he sees it, is to augment those existing preferences with a solid list of unusual and original cocktails. “We get a lot of people from column A and some from column B — people who want new cocktails and people who just want a dry Martini.”

Modern steakhouse bar directors share a lot with both types of customer. They are, of course, schooled in modern mixology and are advocates of original drinks. But when they visit a steakhouse they don’t work at, they most resemble the sort of hidebound traditionalists who have been frequenting American red-meat joints for decades.

“Walking into a steakhouse, I always want a Martini to start,” says Sondre Kasin, director of bars at Cote. “I think it’s important to honor those traditions.”



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Small business: Meat magnet | MEAT+POULTRY


Phil Schmidt started skinning deer and cleaning up a local meat market at the age of 17. Twenty years later the young man emerged knowing everything from how to properly clean the facility, how to run the sausage kitchen, how to cut meats and had a head loaded with management knowledge.

He came away with one other idea: building and running his own meat plant.

Phil and his wife Vicki talked about it and then followed through on the concept of leasing space at a mall near Greenville, Wis., to create this enterprise which would bear the name The Meat Block.

“It took everything we had to do it, but we started out with five employees, 1,500 square feet of retail store space and 1,900 more square feet for production and one smokehouse,” Phil recalled. “We didn’t pay ourselves when we were trying to get things going. We lived on credit cards, which we had never done before. Those days were all about having a meat business that shared our family values.”

Steady growth

That was the year of 2010. Within four years, the couple and their business partner Clyde Weycker and his wife Hollie, saw their new specialty meat shop grow to 15 employees, 2,700 square feet of retail space, a 5,700-square-foot production area, two smokehouses and a catering kitchen. In 2014, the Schmidts, understanding that many families were just too busy or unable to cook, opened a section of their retail store under the banner “The Chef.” In this sector they featured heat-and-serve meals to go, offering everything from pizzas, soups, homemade pot pies and even shredded meats that customers could take home, heat and eat. They also offered salads, sides, sauces and salsas. They even have a local bakery that operates a stand featuring their baked breads and rolls.

“Our tag line is ‘from our family to your table.’ For us it’s all about bringing families back to the dinner table,” Phil, now 50, said. “It’s where we get to know each other and how our day went. These moments are priceless. It was in our book of family values that families should have the fare that enabled them to have meals together. We didn’t just feel that we had to offer the best meats, but also help enable those who should eat together and spend family time together to do just that.

“Also in 2014, one of our employees asked if we might be interested in buying his family’s barbecue and grill sales shop nearby. We thought about it long and hard and realized that the grilling and outdoor eating season in Wisconsin is only a few months long. If someone couldn’t succeed in that business for a few months a year, they would be losing money during all those other months. We agreed to purchase that shop’s existing inventory and sell those type of items at the limited space we still had at The Meat Block space in the mall.”

That wing of the business operates as BBQ Pits ‘n Spits. For the Schmidts, you don’t just offer something for sale…you do it right. That section of The Meat Block doesn’t just sell grills and charcoal; they are a virtual barbecue nation under one roof. This branch of The Meat Block has blossomed into a division that designs complete outdoor kitchens, cooking grills and supplies, refrigeration, gas, electrical and charcoal systems and even storage areas.

When queried about whether any of The Meat Block’s force of 85 employees work at more than one division, Phil’s enthusiasm lights up:

“Absolutely yes,” he said. “You can buy a grill through the mail. But at BBQ Pits ‘n Spits, we have qualified people there to make sure you know how to use it on day one. I’m not just talking about how to turn it on, but how to use it properly for meats, poultry, seafood…you name it. Our people are experts, and we want to give [customers] recipes and teach them how to bring out the best in the meats they are making. Making them look good makes us look good.”

The Meat Block is a modern family business, with parents Phil and Vicki Schmidt leading their children in helping the company survive and thrive. (Source: Schmidt family)

Closing circle

If it appears that the rainbow showed up for the fledgling business in 2014, you are spot on. Not long after that, things grew even rosier for Phil and Vicki.

Before establishing The Meat Block, Phil had spent 20 years working at a nearby meat company. That business was Haen Meat Packing in nearby Kaukauna, roughly 18 miles away from Greenville. Haen Meat Packing was a standout processing house that took home awards for their meat products in state and national competition seemingly by the truckload.

Tim Haen, one of the four brothers who operated that company, explained that the brothers felt they had taken the company as far as they wanted to grow, and it was up for sale. Tim, who served as president of the American Association of Meat Processors (AAMP) from 2013-14, was described by Phil as his life-long mentor. In 2021, The Meat Block bought the Haen business with its renown product line-up, it’s slaughtering facility, retail shop and custom processing operation. The plant manager at the former Haen facility is none other than Tim Haen.

When The Meat Block bought Haen Meat Packing Co., they also bought a vacant house adjoining the property. That space is now dedicated to a new 5,000-square-foot retail area in Kaukauna and is the location for the expanded BBQ Pits ‘n Spits.

Top-notch quality 

If it seems like Phil and Vicki were dealt nothing but aces, take a moment to read those cards closely. They have seven children including a 21-year-old son Logan who manages the grilling wonderland and daughter Taylor who has constantly updated the company website themeatblock.com, Facebook and other social media platforms. She does this remotely while attending college and updates the screens in the retail area showroom. Read it this way: it’s about family.

“We have serious family values and want our customers to feel them,” Phil said. “It pervades everything we do.

“Our beef is sourced from the 1855 Beef program. This is an elite line only offered to elite chefs, restaurants and meat markets. Only the very best USDA Choice and Prime Black Angus is used in this line, offering natural marbling and an incredibly rich beef flavor. It comes from Nebraska and Pennsylvania family ranchers and only 13% of all cattle qualify for the 1855 brand.

“Our poultry is all natural, antibiotic and growth hormone free,” Phil added. “We offer this from Gold‘n Pump and Gerber Amish birds and offer gourmet stuffed chicken breasts, marinated breasts and heart healthy chicken sausage products.”

The Meat Block is no slouch when it comes to the over 100 different products the company makes in the sausage and cured meat cuts areas, and they employ three Master Meat Crafters in the Fox River Valley to oversee that operation. Phil estimates the company’s five truck smokers will grow to 15 within the next year or so. The company also supports local agriculture through sales of maple syrup, honey, frozen fruits and other produce.

Phil has just finished serving on the board of directors of the Wisconsin Association of Meat Processors for the past 12 years and readily shares how it all happened:

“I’m old school and there is no pass for not getting it right. You have to create and accept the culture of today. Be proud of your products in the knowledge you’ve made them the best they can be and treat all employees and customers like they are family. And don’t be afraid to charge enough for your product…that’s easier when your customer knows they are getting the best.”

Phil adds that the firm is undergoing a rebranding to put all its products under The Meat Block brand and is having success in its early efforts to private label meats for livestock producers and co-pack for other small processors.

“We are actively looking to develop new business relationships and grow our business,” Phil said. “I couldn’t have done this without the support of my beautiful wife; thanks to her believing in me and my crazy dreams, we have been able to accomplish great things and we are not done yet.”



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PAC Strapping Products Highlights its High Performance Polyester Strapping


Superior performance and lower cost compared to steel and other traditional strapping options

PAC Strapping Products, a leader in the strapping and packaging industry, highlights its High Performance Polyester Strapping, a consistent, high-quality product for the toughest strapping applications. PAC High Performance Polyester Strapping combines the strength of steel strapping with the safety and economy of plastic to maximize performance, resulting in a more secure load at a lower cost.

Designed to meet the rigorous demands of heavy-duty bundling, palletizing, and load security, PAC’s High Performance Polyester (PET) Strapping promises superior performance compared to steel and other traditional strapping options. Engineered with advanced materials and through state-of-the-art manufacturing processes, this robust, cost-effective strapping solution ensures secure and reliable load containment.

One of the key benefits of PAC High Performance Polyester is elongation recovery. Applied properly, PAC High Performance Polyester Strapping will stretch under tension. However, most of the elongation is recovered after the initial application. The result is a strap that stays tight even if the load shrinks or settles during transit. Additionally, the PET material maintains high retained tension, staying tighter than steel and polypropylene. Ultimately, this results in shipments that remain secure even when they undergo significant movement during transit.

PAC High Performance Polyester is environmentally friendly due to its high recycled content and ease of recyclability. PAC Strapping offers solutions for their customers and municipalities to support recycling strap, helping to close the loop. Moreover, it is almost impervious to weather conditions, unlike steel, which rusts and is affected by the elements.

Safety is another critical benefit: the danger from strap recoil injuries is significantly reduced, there are no sharp edges with PAC High Performance Polyester which eliminates operator lacerations and PAC High Performance Polyester coils weigh about half as much as steel coils, enhancing lifting ergonomics and reducing potential injuries.

Cost savings can also be substantial, with a potential of 25-50% over steel strapping. In addition, there are potential opportunities for labor cost reductions when applying PAC High Performance Polyester over steel.

For more information about PAC Strapping Products and the significant financial and performance benefits of converting from steel to PAC High Performance Polyester Strapping, visit https://strapsolutions.com/products/plastic-strapping/high-performance-polyester-strapping/.

 



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project44 data: Europe Ocean Peak Season Trends 2024


The ocean peak season marks a crucial annual event for companies preparing to import freight ahead of the holiday shopping period.

Traditionally spanning from August to October, this period has, in recent years, begun as early as June.

This shift results from several factors, including more advanced planning and ordering processes to smooth supply chains, past delays due to COVID-19-related disruptions, and general increases in transit times due to ongoing tensions in the Red Sea. project44 diligently tracks emerging trends during this pivotal peak season.

The chart below shows the shifts in import volumes from certain countries to Europe during June and July of 2023 compared to 2024.

China remains a global manufacturing powerhouse, accounting for 44% of imports to Europe between June and July in both 2023 and 2024. However, the lack of increase in volume indicates that Europe is not increasing its manufacturing footprint in the country. Year-over-year import volumes have also decreased in India, Indonesia, South Africa, and Vietnam.

The largest increase in imports comes from the United States. In 2024, over 9% of all European import shipments observed by project44 for June and July originated from the U.S., marking a 3.5% increase compared to 2023.

The “Other” category, comprising 24% of imports, also shows growth compared to
2023. While the listed countries represent the top 10 that project44 tracks, the increase in the “Other” category demonstrates that Europe is continuing to diversify its import sources.

The port of loading refers to the port where freight is loaded onto container vessels. The chart below illustrates trends in the top ports used for peak season volume in 2024 and how their share of peak volume has changed compared to 2023.

Overall, the top 15 ports have remained generally consistent, with Shanghai seeing the largest increase at 2% over 2023. Volumes from Houston, Norfolk, and Savannah have also risen, highlighting the primary ports utilized for the increasing U.S. imports. European shippers should note the potential for labour strikes starting in October, as negotiations with the union for East Coast and Gulf Coast ports are ongoing, with the current contract set to expire on 30 September 2024. A failure to reach an agreement could cause significant disruptions to U.S. imports into Europe.

There has also been a 4% reduction in volume across all other ports. While this is not a large number given that it encompasses hundreds of ports, it underscores a strategic focus on working with specific ports rather than a larger number.

The port of discharge refers to the port where freight is unloaded from container vessels. The chart below shows the trends in the top ports used for peak season volume in 2024 and how their share of peak volume has changed compared to 2023.

Overall, there have been no substantial year-over-year changes in the main ports of discharge for European imports. The Ports of Rotterdam, Hamburg, Antwerp, and Felixstowe continue to account for over 50% of all ports of discharge for imports into Europe.

Similar to the observations at ports of loading, the “Other” category has also decreased for ports of discharge. This reflects a trend where shippers build and develop supply chains around specific ports or regions, making it more cost-effective to consolidate shipments at fewer ports.

The 2024 ocean peak season highlights several significant trends in global shipping and logistics. Despite efforts to diversify manufacturing origins, China remains a dominant force, with no year-over-year increase in volume. The United States has seen growth in its trade relationship with Europe, but potential labour strikes could impact U.S. imports as contract negotiations continue through September.




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Harris aims to ban food price gouging, while industry points to supply chain pressures



As part of broader plans to lower the cost of living for Americans during her economic speech​ in Raleigh, NC, last week, Harris said she intends to address food price gouging during her first 100 days in office.

Harris plans “to make it a top priority to bring down costs and bring economic security for Americans,” and “take on high costs,” such as for food, she said during her speech via Washington Post.

She argued that even though the supply chain has improved since the COVID-19 pandemic, “prices are still too high. A loaf of bread cost 50% more today than it did before the pandemic. Ground beef is up almost 50%.”

She pointed out that while some grocery chains are passing on savings to Americans, “many are not,” highlighting record high profits from food companies.

Contrary to the higher cost of consumer foods, food prices ‘represented a bright spot’

In a prepared response​ to Harris’ plans, FMI – The Food Industry Association’s President and CEO, Leslie Sarasin explained that while inflation has increased prices of consumer goods, food prices “represented a bright spot,” according to data from the 2024 Consumer Price Index​ (CPI).

Sarasin highlights “July’s CPI placed year-over-year food-at-home inflation at 1.1%, which remains below the 2.9% increase in overall inflation,” Sarasin said.

However, Harris compares current food prices to pre-pandemic levels, emphasizing that while inflation may be slowing, the cost of groceries remains higher than before the pandemic.

Sarasin added, “Food retailers’ profit margins are, and always have been, extremely tight – just 1.6% last year,” according to FMI data​.

Sarasin cited the food industry’s ongoing efforts “amidst fierce competition” to tackle inflation and reduce costs for consumers. She emphasized higher labor costs, turbulent energy prices, unpredictable environmental events, supply chain disruptions and “an unprecedented level of regulatory burden” have attributed to an increase in food production costs.

In response to “deceptive practices like price gouging,” Sarasin emphasized its illegality and that “is has no place in our stores.”

“It is both inaccurate and irresponsible to conflate an illegal activity like price gouging—a defined legal term in which specific violations of trade practices law occur—with inflation, which is a broad macroeconomic measure of increases in consumer prices over time due to supply chain cost pressures. In the context of food, inflation impacts how far the dollar goes when buying groceries,” she said.

Sarasin highlighted that for Americans and the food industry, “when discussing food prices, it is imperative that our conversations remain grounded in reality and data, rather than rhetoric.”

Supply chain pressures did raise costs, but mostly for manufacturers and retailers

Ricky Volpe, associate professor of agribusiness at California Polytechnic State University echoed these sentiments, adding that “recent media coverage surrounding inflation’s impact on food prices often does not reflect the economic subtleties and nuances that influence the real cost of food in America,” during an interview​ with FMI.

Volpe explained that while the average American income increased by 28% between March 2020 and June 2024, food prices increased 24.6% in the same period, according to data​ from the US Bureau of Economic Analysis Personal Disposable Income, which measures the average amount of after-tax income. Volpe emphasized that although food prices appeared to have increased, the actual cost of groceries, relative to wages, decreased by nearly two percentage points in the same period.

“This has allowed consumer demand to remain high and families to meet their grocery needs even as prices have increased,” he said.

While it remains true that food prices increased relative to wages, Volpe explained that increased supply chain costs were mostly absorbed by grocers and producers.

“The truth is that when producer costs go up, consumer prices go up too — this is standard market dynamics,” he added.

Volpe detailed supply chain pressures such as rising transportation costs caused by a shortage of truck drivers​ and limited refrigerated truck capacity, higher labor costs due to labor challenges, higher turnover rates and severe weather events that have contributed to driving up prices for manufacturers and retailers.

Based on food manufacturing data​ from the Producer Price Index (PPI), which measures the prices businesses pay for goods and services necessary to make their products and data about food at home in the Consumer Price Index between March 2020 and June 20204, consumer prices grew slightly less than producer input costs, while groceries’ costs grew 25.3% and producer costs grew 28%, Volpe explained.

“This suggests that not only are grocers absorbing a portion of the supply chain cost increases, but also that the prices consumers pay are not the result of runaway profits. Rather, they are due to inflationary pressures throughout the entire supply chain that increase costs for businesses producing and selling food,” he said.

For example, fruits and vegetables producer costs increased by 37.1% over the four-year time period, whereas consumer prices went up 16.2%, resulting in a difference of 20.9 percentage points, according to PPI data.

This indicates the supply chain is absorbing a large portion of the input costs to avoid passing significant price hikes on to consumers,” Volpe added.

 

                                                                                                                                             



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Leave it up to the barista: How omakase could transform specialty coffee


Specialty coffee is always looking for new ways to elevate the customer experience. In recent years, more and more cafés have invested in automated brewing equipment so that staff can spend more time engaging with consumers, and improve beverage quality at the same time.

Automatic pour over brewers and milk foamers have certainly become popular, however, the role of the barista is indispensable in specialty coffee. Acting as the “face” of the supply chain to the customer, they have to balance the art and science of making coffee, as well as educating guests about how coffee is grown and processed.

But what if coffee shops were to heighten customer service and place the entire experience in the hands of trusted baristas? Here is where omakase could help transform specialty coffee.

To learn more, I spoke to Eiichi Kunitomo, founder of Koffee Mameya Kakeru, and Mikael Jasin, 2024 World Barista Champion and founder of Omakafe.

You may also like our article on whether tasting flights are the best way to experience coffee.

How omakase has elevated the restaurant industry

Although the term may not be widely known around the world, “omakase” is a commonly used phrase in Japanese restaurants when ordering food, especially sushi. In English, omakase directly translates to “I leave it up to you” – meaning guests allow the chef to choose dishes for them.

The concept draws inspiration from three elements of Japanese cuisine and hospitality:

  • Omotenashi – a tenant of Japanese hospitality designed to surpass guests’ expectations
  • Kaiseki – a highly-ritualised and elevated multi course dining experience
  • Kodawari – the pursuit of perfection and attention to detail

Seasonality, quality ingredients, and simple preparation are essential parts of omakase. As part of the experience, chefs typically serve lighter and more traditional plates first. Customers often sit at the kitchen counter to interact face-to-face with the chef, who guides them through the dining experience and gauges their reaction to the food served. 

Depending on responses from the guests, dishes may become more adventurous and interesting throughout – culminating in a truly unique dining experience. In recent years, omakase-style restaurants have been established in countries outside of Japan, with many of them serving sushi and traditional Japanese cuisine.

But what about coffee?

Japanese specialty coffee culture is incredibly sophisticated, so it’s no surprise that a small but growing number of the country’s cafés offer omakase-style experiences.

Blue Bottle Studio in Kyoto is one of the most notable examples, with other locations also in Hong Kong, Los Angeles, and Seoul. The eight-course tasting menu showcases the roaster’s selection of limited-edition and high-quality coffees, including Gesha and Wush Wush. Guests are also served drinks made from coffee leaves, flowers, and cherries, as well as two complementary desserts which pair with different flavour profiles.

Eiichi Kunitomo is the founder of Koffee Mameya Kakeru – a coffee shop in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa known as Tokyo’s “coffee neighbourhood”. 

“’Kakeru’ means ‘multiplication’ in Japanese,” he says. “It means that we as baristas must create new value by combining different aspects of the coffee shop experience, and showcase our skills and knowledge through extraction. Just like enjoying a chef’s cooking at a fine dining restaurant, customers can take part in an extraordinary coffee experience while learning more about where it comes from.”

Eiichi tells me Koffee Mameya Kakeru offers seasonal, signature, and coffee cocktail omakase courses. Each one comes with a sweet or small savoury dish which complements the drinks, and a designated barista prepares and guides guests through the beverages served.

“Baristas have a responsibility to tell the story behind the coffee, but until now, there has been a limit as to how traditional coffee shops can do this,” he adds. “Omakase-style experience allows baristas to serve customers like they are judges at competitions.”

Elevating the customer experience

In an omakase-style dining service, the guest is always the focal point. Although the customer has to put their trust in the chef to serve excellent food, the chef also needs to pay close attention to how each guest reacts to certain dishes. Essentially, there is a symbiotic relationship between the two to offer a more intimate and refined experience.

“Japanese hospitality is heavily influenced by tea rituals and ceremonies, which have also impacted omakase dining experiences,” Eiichi says. “Similar to sushi restaurants, omakase also includes face-to-face interactions with the chef or barista so that customers can see everything that happens in the kitchen or behind the bar.

“This artisanal and craftsmanship-style of hospitality builds trust with guests, and aligns with the values and ethos of specialty coffee,” he adds.

Mikael Jasin is the founder of Omakafe in Indonesia – whose name is heavily inspired by the omakase concept. He emphasises that the decision to provide more personal and elevated service is to offer customers an experience that many have never had.

“We don’t want to add ‘noise’ to the specialty coffee scene,” he tells me. “We want to be a source of inspiration and do something different, which is why we chose this style of service.

“There are five options on the menu and it rotates every three months or so based on the different seasons,” he adds. “Customers can also tour our fermentation room and the prep kitchen.”

Café design is equally important

Ambience is an essential part of omakase, which means the design and atmosphere of the space has a huge impact on the overall experience. Many restaurants and coffee shops reserve only a small number of seats so that chefs and baristas can focus as much of their attention on guests as possible.

Eiichi believes that interior design also impacts how the guests perceive their coffee.

“Carefully-curated design enhances the quality of the coffee and the hard work of the baristas,” he tells me. “We also considered the differences between exterior and interior design so that stepping into the store opens up a completely different world.”

He explains that he worked closely with Koffee Mameya Kakeru’s art director Tomohiro Kato and architect Yosuke Hayashi to design a minimalist yet visually-striking U-shaped coffee bar where customers can sit to interact with the baristas.

But there are limitations to omakase in coffee shops

Given that omakase is a more intimate experience, it usually attracts a certain type of customer that is looking for a more formal and revered dining service.

“We usually serve coffee enthusiasts and foodies, many of whom don’t normally go to specialty coffee shops, but want to experience coffee in new ways,” Eiichi says. “Although you don’t need to have specific coffee knowledge to visit Koffee Mameya Kakeru, we ask that guests reserve seats in advance.”

Mikael, on the other hand, says Omakafe has brought in a more diverse range of customers.

“When we first opened we thought we would only serve nerdy coffee connoisseurs or baristas,” he says. “Most of our customers enjoy food and want to try different things, but they wouldn’t describe themselves as coffee or wine drinkers.”

At the same time, we need to acknowledge that choice is important for many consumers, and omakase is essentially a trust exercise that comes with a higher price tag. Guests need to feel comfortable and assured that baristas will choose high-quality coffee that suits their taste preferences, which requires years of expertise and skill.

Accounting for business and customer needs

To integrate omakase in their operations, coffee shops would have to invest in extensive training so that both staff and customers are comfortable with the more intimate and knowledgeable style of service. Naturally, this isn’t a realistic option for many.

Meanwhile, for some customers, the experience may be intimidating, or they may simply prefer to order exactly what they want. Ultimately, the decision to offer a personal dining experience is a careful one to consider.

Specialty coffee is always on the lookout for new ways to elevate the consumer experience, and omakase could raise the bar even higher. For some cafés, a fine dining coffee concept could offer a new way to engage with customers.

However, it’s clear that this model won’t work for every coffee business. Operators need to consider their own needs, as well as what their customers are looking for.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how aeration can improve coffee flavour.

Photo credits: Koffee Mameya Kakeru, Omakafe

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Bojangles expands menu with chicken wings


Bojangles Inc. is expanding its menu with chicken wings and dipping sauces, the company said Monday.

The Charlotte, N.C.-based brand initially is launching chicken wings with house-made ranch dressing for a limited time.

Other flavors of dipping sauces include creamy Buffalo, barbecue and classic, the company said.

“We know our fans love tailgate season, so we’re excited to offer these new wings that are not only tasty but also will make any party pop off with Bo Time,” said Marshall Scarborough, Bojangles’ vice president of menu and culinary innovation, in a statement.

“Whether you’re hosting a tailgate, a watch party at home or just craving a savory snack, Bojangles’ new chicken wings are the ultimate crowd pleaser,” Scarborough said.

A spokesperson said prices vary by market, but a five-wing combo is suggested at $9.79 and a 10-wing combo is $16.49. Suggested price for a 20-pack is $24.99 with $47.99 for 40 and $69.99 for 60.

The wings are available as an add-on to any order for a limited time. In a one-time only deal, Bojangles is offering 20% off a five-piece wings combo at checkout when customers order through the brand’s smartphone app.

Bojangles, founded in 1977, has about 800 restaurants in 16 states.

Contact Ron Ruggless at [email protected]

Follow him on X/Twitter: @RonRuggless





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FSA nears Conservation Reserve Program enrollment cap



The Conservation Reserve Program is nearing its cap of 27 million acres as USDA’s Farm Service Agency accepts offers for more than 2.2 million acres in the latest grassland, general and continuous signups.

In a press release, the agency said Monday it has accepted 1.44 million acres in the grassland signup in 2024, bringing total acres enrolled in that program to 10 million.

Producers with acreage enrolled under the grassland signup can still graze and cut hay from the land, but the payment rate is lower than for the general and continuous signups. 

According to a notice provided to FSA county offices, landowners applied to enroll more than 3 million acres through the grassland signup. The national average annual payment for the land that was accepted will be $16.63 per acre.

Nebraska had the largest amount of land accepted under the grassland signup at 237,853 acres, followed by Colorado at 218,145.

The FSA notice notes that the agency’s authority to conduct a CRP signup expires Sept. 30 unless extended by Congress. The 2018 farm bill was extended for a year last fall. 

Some 200,000 acres were accepted in the general CRP signup this year, bringing total enrollment in that program to 7.9 million acres. 

More than 565,000 acres have been enrolled under the continuous signup so far this year.  Enrollment can continue throughout the year. Some 8.5 million acres are currently enrolled under the continuous signup, according to the release.



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St. Charles Trading partners with Azingro



ELGIN, ILL. — St. Charles Trading Inc. was named Azingro’s United States distributor of calcium propionate, a popular preservative that extends shelf life in bread products.

A certified women-owned business, St. Charles has a portfolio that includes more than 4,000 ingredients, which serves diverse markets and applications. It was founded in 1984 by William Manns and purchased by his daughters in 2019.

“The partnership between Azingro and St. Charles Trading is a collaboration between two strong family-owned companies that excel in finding solutions for their customers,” said Andy Smith, director of purchasing for St. Charles Trading Inc. “St. Charles Trading’s large network of customers in the United States is a perfect fit for both companies to expand their offerings and provide the best quality products to the market. We are excited about the future and feel this is a path for mutual growth and success.” 

Azingro is a family-owned Belgian business with more than 130 years of expertise in the agriculture, food and feed industries. 



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